Thanks Kurt!

I haven’t been this inspired since Hans “no way” Ray.  Climbing videos suck so bad.  Sorry, but it’s true.

Okay, maybe I was a little hard on climbing, it’s not they suck, they are very well made and ubber inspiring, but I’d much rather watch a good surf film instead.  Just my opinion.  What, I’m not allowed to have an opinion?   Or maybe it’s because I’ve seen so many climbing video’s I’m numb to them a little, I suppose that’s possible too.  I think I watched Masters of Stone like 600 times.  Ron Kauk FOR LIFE!

  • onthereal

    how ghey is bouldering, with crash pads and spotters, compared to that?

    pretty damn ghey

  • Joey C

    Woah!

  • Wow… I just tried my hand at my first video edit… and now I fully realize how much further there is to go…

  • Alex

    Agreed, climbing vids suck in general. But Dreamcatcher just had a second ascent!

  • Sonnie

    Dreamcatcher? Dreamcatcher? Who gives a shit about Dreamcatcher? Did you even watch this video? The guy drops off a bridge on a bicycle and rides away with both style and grace. A fucking bridge!

    Okay, okay, I’m joking, of course, yah super big news about that, word spreads around Squamish like wildfire, very pumped on that, we’ve all been waiting a very long time for that and it shows that you don’t have to be Chris to make it, ha ha. So many climbers got very close this year, even Matt Bosley pulled the corner this Aug, but ahh, no foot holds, but he’s coming back in Oct with Paul I heard. Sean was very close to doing the route a couple of years ago I think, so it’s really great to see him come back and finally tick it off. It must have been such a great feeling. It’s funny because in Europe we got guys doing 5.14d second try, and there’s even a 14 year old kid who climbed 3 5.14d’s in the last couple of weeks. What the hell? But I’m willing to bet none of them are as burly or as beautiful as Dreamcatcher. It’s one of the few sport climbs in the world that I actually got excited about and Sharma’s video was one of the most uplifting I’ve ever seen, right up there with Realization. so sick!

    Big Up to Sean for sticking with it. He is certainly capable of much harder climbing, 5.15 most def, he’s still just a young boy. I think I too was 23 when I climbed my first (and only) 9a. Certainly my personal best I suppose, much harder than any of the 5.14c’s I had done, technical with tiny pockets and mono’s, but DC is completely different than this, Dreamcather is my weakness, campusing on tiny crimps at the end, arhg. But it’s Sean’s strength, I’ve seen him dangle one handed on some very thin edges and it’s obvious he has the magic grip. Like Ethan and Paul. Perhaps only a few are stronger, Nalle, Pou, Sharma, Woods, Koyamada? Who knows, it’s all so incredible to me at that level. I wonder if Dreamcatcher is even a possible 9a+. Ethan told me it was the hardest of all the routes he tried in that range. I’m sure Robinson thought it was hard enough, perhaps even harder than Psychedelic? It could be. Chris was climbing 9a+ back then, sometimes he didn’t even know he was doing it. He sort of skipped the 5.14d level a bit, flashing 5.14b’s, then climbing FA 5.15’s a year later, and multiple ones at that. Could DC be harder than he thinks? I suppose only Sean really knows.

    In 2007 (or 2008? I can’t recall) Dave Graham repeated Lev Pinters 9a route at Accephale and said it was more D than C. Lev called it 5.14+ and Dave told him that if it were in Europe it would be SOLID 9a. Dave certainly had to bend his elbows to grab the second ascent, but again, this too is different, blocky, with wide pinches. Each of these 9a’s all have a completely different style, which is so inspiring. I would like to be strong enough on all styles one day. One day.

    Anyway, I just got back from a BBQ and sort of drunk, so I’ll wrap it up… HUGE CONGRATS TO SEAN, GOOD CLIMBING MATE! Too bad they missed the video, I would have liked to watch it, and post it, even if climbing videos do suck, in a general sort of way.

  • Roger

    Is that the same dude that did the Vegas jump? SHITBALLS!! That was sick!

  • Suradetch

    That was dope. Surf and skate videos are dope too. Yeah I agree, climbing videos are lame. Especially the video with that shirtles skinny dude wearing a backwards cap climbing python crack or whatever =]. I am actually quite stoked about Progression coming out. Can’t wait!

  • Nancy

    How many times can you say, “No FUCKING WAY!” in 5:38 minutes!?! Only a Scotsman has the cast iron balls to pull this off! Has something to do with descending from generations of kilt wearers. Are you KIDDING me? Style, grace, and a sweet, humble smile. Dude.

  • Kyle

    This video is good. But as we all think climbing videos are lame or we’re just bored of them, the same is true for this video. I’ve been riding bikes all my life. Making videos doing the same tricks, drops and spins, which makes this video like any other BMX video I’ve ever seen. Amazing rider though for sure and great footage and editing. But still comes off boring. For climbing videos… I can’t get into watching Joey Kinder sending something in Rifle. The early Masters of Stone are rad still today. As for today’s videos I think Sender Films is doing the best job. The Sharp End was phenomenal. Great footage, great climbing… I mean they even made Cetard Wright look good. Props!

  • UNREAL VID. So SICK!

  • Ha, you’re welcome Sonnie. Yes what he does on a bike is truly inspiring, whether you ride bikes or not.

  • Pretty sick video for sure, I guess it has alot to do with the music as well….and a few hair devil moves.

    http://vimeo.com/5491897

    If you are going to watch one snowboard movie this winter, make this one it…

  • Think you hit the nail on the head that we all come a bit burnt out from watching climbing/biking/surfing vids 🙂 Having said that, this is a super piece of footage – and interestingly my young sister who isn’t into any sports and wouldn’t touch a climbing movie, was the first person that showed me this vid a month or so ago so maybe there is something to this footage that climbing movies can learn from…..

    On all the 9a talk, no idea how hard that even is – might take several (dozen) more years training 😉

    Keep up the posts Sonnie, always interesting/inspiring/funny (depending on the day).

  • Kai

    check this out too for crazy skills on bikes
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b36Yi-Pb1wM

  • Oh, there´s another one that makes me feel dizzy just watching it… But what should you expect – it´s Dean…
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90xfWYnz9KM&feature=player_embedded

  • caroline

    Amazing video, but watching it has just made me feel a little homesick :o(

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  • Sebestyén

    Yes here in EU was a fashion. Some climbers graded every route 5.10 even if it was 5.13 or higher. Btw its fuckin not funny.

  • Sebestyén

    Fuck! Almost every posts are 4years olds.