Back on the Crack, eh!

Greetings radical beings. I have to admit, it’s been a hard couple of weeks on the whole web updating front, I just can’t seem to sit down long enough to write much, sure it was all fun and easy when the nights were 18 hours long, but these days it’s the flip side and I’m packing so much into my days that I got nuthin left over for the poor lonely flat screen. It ain’t that nuthin’s happening, of course shits happening, and it’s happening all the time, I’m just too lazy and pathetic to actually write words about it. Sorry, punter, I know. But this time I got a real treat for you and it’s for YOUR eyes only, the eyes who keep dropping in to say a friendly hello, to read the dribble, this buds for you, cause I appreciate you stopping in, it helps me keep my shit together. So thanks, give yourself a nice gentle pat on the back, or ass if you prefer, or the ass of the closest female to your current position. Whatever you like. Here we go…

Blogging, so who invented it? What’s it really good for anyway? Besides the obvious things like – bragging and bitching? Well, VIDEO for one. Shit, yah. Blogging is good for video and since I have nothing to brag or bitch about I think I’ll share a little video clip of my buddy Big Willy Stanhope. He’s a super bro super hero. Not only a good guy through the thick and thin, but also a gnarly rock climber who gets his kicks on granite towers and tiny finger cracks. This year he’s been putting in many days trying to take down the Cobra Crack. Seems like the next logical step after slaying the Monkey. He’s worked the line into a one hang situation, but can’t link over the bulge yet. The crack itself has never been the crux, it’s the whole lip encounter thing. Last year the climb got repeated three times, by VERY capable 5.14+ climbers, they all used a new sequence which involves flipping upside down and heel hooking over your head in a fancy heel toe cam. Some crazy shit. Yesterday, I went up with Will to watch him send and to take a run up the climb myself to see what was up with all these new ascents, ha ha. As it turns out, the new beta is slightly easier, it’s true, the sequence is practically backwards right from the start, and it’s got a much more enjoyable exit. Nico called the line 5.14b, and it took Ethan Pringle something like seven or eight days, so it’s got to be a least a little bit hard, but I don’t think the new sequence is nearly as “insecure” as the old way Dedier and I were trying it. Shit, I wish I had this beta five years ago. Ha ha ha, I suppose that’s the way life goes, you save up all year to buy yourself a new computer only to watch your best friend buy the exact same one for half price two weeks later. Now ain’t that a bitch? Wink. But here’s the best part, the new beta is actually MUCH more enjoyable and exciting and I shot GREAT video of Will nearly hitting the second to last hold before slipping out and falling ass first into the side wall below. On his second attempt…..well…..I don’t want to give it away…..watch it…..oh and sorry about the cell phone, bad timing…..we’re still trying to nail that guy for questioning…..possible sabotage…..

The Cobra Crack 5.14, Will Stanhope from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

  • dood, transcribe this to a post-it note and take it climbing with you everywhere:

    “when in doubt, heel hook some shit over your head. like, always.”

    this nugget will undoubtedly provide you with many sends, riches, and possibly an international pardon.

  • oh. my. gosh. that was supreme. will had me actually laughing out loud at the beginning – so great – so sucks that he didn’t get it! (yet) great vid, sonnie, all the interviews and angles are really fun to watch. cheers!

  • Benny G

    dude, the vid ain’t working.

  • jay trent

    nice video sonnie. Shame he didn’t get it. That is such an awesome line, everytime i watch a video on cobra crack it makes me want to go clmbing

  • Tom

    Speaking of the Cobra Curse – what about that dude from “first ascent”, Didier – was he ever seen since his escape to a monastery?

  • sonnie

    Sock hands, great beta, did this new slab thing today, worked like a charm. flipped, locker heel toe, booya, thanks gang, Tom, sorry I don’t know of his whereabouts these days, haven’t gotten a letter in over a year from Mr.B. I hope he’s well.

  • Morgan

    Wel done to Will….certainly like his certain irreverance.

    oh and “don’t forget to eat that f*cker” best flapper comment ever.

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