Comments on: phase two! http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/ Do what you love. Love what you do. Thu, 11 Mar 2010 17:40:50 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.1 hourly 1 By: sonnie http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4205 sonnie Wed, 08 Jul 2009 03:58:54 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4205 Perhaps a little late for a reply, but seriously I gotta say this is some terrific feedback, thank you, all of you. I'm glad you enjoy the line, as do I and I'm glad I can inspire some of you, as I am inspired by others. So far, here's where it's at, the gear is located behind a five inch flake 16 inches to the left of my right foot in the first picture. It's scary (because the pieces are tiny) and because the other day the flake made a hollow noise when I snapped on the small cams, it was a sound I didn't enjoy, and created a feeling of unease. My heart sank a little. But since that day I've sent the climb on TR again in very hot temps and with some creative placing, I can get the gear to stay in place and "hopefully" not put too much force on the flake that it rips off the wall. I am not going to bolt it. The last time I raised this issue on my site, I added bolts to the line in reference and it's been climbed three or four times since, it's been enjoyed and I feel I made a good decision, but this isn't the same climb or the same situation, this climb doesn't need an extra bolt I've decided, it doesn't warrant one (not from my point of view anyway, another climber may argue and place a bolt, I can't stop them , nobody can, but it's been pretty well agreed here that it's not mandatory, so that's nice) Besides, nobody would repeat it anyway, it would make for a half ass sport climb. So, I am leaving it, until I or someone rad enough comes along and ticks it clean. I hope the temps and conditions allow me to have a good stab at it soon. Namaste! Perhaps a little late for a reply, but seriously I gotta say this is some terrific feedback, thank you, all of you. I’m glad you enjoy the line, as do I and I’m glad I can inspire some of you, as I am inspired by others. So far, here’s where it’s at, the gear is located behind a five inch flake 16 inches to the left of my right foot in the first picture. It’s scary (because the pieces are tiny) and because the other day the flake made a hollow noise when I snapped on the small cams, it was a sound I didn’t enjoy, and created a feeling of unease. My heart sank a little. But since that day I’ve sent the climb on TR again in very hot temps and with some creative placing, I can get the gear to stay in place and “hopefully” not put too much force on the flake that it rips off the wall. I am not going to bolt it. The last time I raised this issue on my site, I added bolts to the line in reference and it’s been climbed three or four times since, it’s been enjoyed and I feel I made a good decision, but this isn’t the same climb or the same situation, this climb doesn’t need an extra bolt I’ve decided, it doesn’t warrant one (not from my point of view anyway, another climber may argue and place a bolt, I can’t stop them , nobody can, but it’s been pretty well agreed here that it’s not mandatory, so that’s nice) Besides, nobody would repeat it anyway, it would make for a half ass sport climb. So, I am leaving it, until I or someone rad enough comes along and ticks it clean. I hope the temps and conditions allow me to have a good stab at it soon. Namaste!

]]> By: blake http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4097 blake Mon, 15 Jun 2009 05:54:07 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4097 Can you say bullet, if i am seeing everything there is no gear from base of arete too top of arete maybe 30' or so with a roof to slab fall.Is the ground an issue? I am no purist but I would add one bolt.Whatever you do it looks classic. Can you say bullet, if i am seeing everything there is no gear from base of arete too top of arete maybe 30′ or so with a roof to slab fall.Is the ground an issue? I am no purist but I would add one bolt.Whatever you do it looks classic.

]]> By: phillip http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4088 phillip Wed, 10 Jun 2009 14:53:57 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4088 Sonnie, Ultimately it comes down to what you want out of the experience- I'm sure you're quite capable mentally AND physically of sending this thing sans new bolt. (However, a fall from there looks nasty!) If you put a bolt in it will still be a proud, direct line up Big Daddy AND people will even want to repeat it. If you don't... well, you'll pull off a badass headpoint that was another exercise in mental/physical composure. I'm not arguing that FA's should do routes for reasons other than their own, but taking into consideration where that particular route is and the style of the surrounding routes has me leaning towards thinking that another bolt is not the end of the world! Grand Daddy Overhang, Big Daddy, Claim Jumper all have a mix of gear and bolts (not to mention the 4 bolt 11a directly underneath you in the photo). I'm sure you have some other projects hundreds of feet off the deck around Squamish where you'll be running it out over some tiny gear, but the fall won't bust you up too much :) Just my two cents. You're a badass either way. Thanks for the blog- it's a good one! Sonnie,
Ultimately it comes down to what you want out of the experience- I’m sure you’re quite capable mentally AND physically of sending this thing sans new bolt. (However, a fall from there looks nasty!) If you put a bolt in it will still be a proud, direct line up Big Daddy AND people will even want to repeat it. If you don’t… well, you’ll pull off a badass headpoint that was another exercise in mental/physical composure. I’m not arguing that FA’s should do routes for reasons other than their own, but taking into consideration where that particular route is and the style of the surrounding routes has me leaning towards thinking that another bolt is not the end of the world! Grand Daddy Overhang, Big Daddy, Claim Jumper all have a mix of gear and bolts (not to mention the 4 bolt 11a directly underneath you in the photo).

I’m sure you have some other projects hundreds of feet off the deck around Squamish where you’ll be running it out over some tiny gear, but the fall won’t bust you up too much :) Just my two cents. You’re a badass either way. Thanks for the blog- it’s a good one!

]]> By: Charlie http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4087 Charlie Wed, 10 Jun 2009 02:51:44 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4087 Sonnie, I think deep down you already know the answer to your question, but you are just prolonging the experience of working the route. Go send it and see how long it takes for some one to be as bold. On a more casual note, congrats on getting a permanent home - must be such a change from your days of living in a van. As a home owner in Squamish I already know how you feel. Isn't it great?!!? Of course, having the bank hanging over you every month isn't so fun... Thanks for the inspiration - time to go send hard stuff! Sonnie, I think deep down you already know the answer to your question, but you are just prolonging the experience of working the route. Go send it and see how long it takes for some one to be as bold.

On a more casual note, congrats on getting a permanent home – must be such a change from your days of living in a van. As a home owner in Squamish I already know how you feel. Isn’t it great?!!? Of course, having the bank hanging over you every month isn’t so fun…

Thanks for the inspiration – time to go send hard stuff!

]]> By: Vlad http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4086 Vlad Tue, 09 Jun 2009 23:16:18 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4086 Sonnie, whatever you decide to do (place a bolt or not), please, stay safe! It really hurts to see strong climbers, who inspire you a lot, or good friends get hurt or die because of one stupid bolt that wasn't there, one hold that broke, or some random avalanche, etc. Besides, if YOU think that it's dangerous without the bolt, then VERY few others will even try this route. Stay safe and thanks for the sweet pictures! You'll always be a huge inspiration to me! Sonnie, whatever you decide to do (place a bolt or not), please, stay safe! It really hurts to see strong climbers, who inspire you a lot, or good friends get hurt or die because of one stupid bolt that wasn’t there, one hold that broke, or some random avalanche, etc. Besides, if YOU think that it’s dangerous without the bolt, then VERY few others will even try this route. Stay safe and thanks for the sweet pictures! You’ll always be a huge inspiration to me!

]]> By: Ian Manners http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4083 Ian Manners Tue, 09 Jun 2009 16:04:58 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4083 The arete at nightmare rock looks awesome, I cant even imagine how you get onto it lower down, at mid-height. However, doesnt Big Daddy overhang already have a bolt where this route would merge? If it's already got a bolt on it, surely the decision to bolt or not has already been made? The arete at nightmare rock looks awesome, I cant even imagine how you get onto it lower down, at mid-height. However, doesnt Big Daddy overhang already have a bolt where this route would merge? If it’s already got a bolt on it, surely the decision to bolt or not has already been made?

]]> By: Micah http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4077 Micah Mon, 08 Jun 2009 22:47:54 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4077 Sonnie, you're already so busy right now it seems like bolting that thing would just add to the list. Keep it clean is my vote. Besides, it's 'only' .13d right?(hehehehe) Sonnie,
you’re already so busy right now it seems like bolting that thing would just add to the list. Keep it clean is my vote. Besides, it’s ‘only’ .13d right?(hehehehe)

]]> By: kim http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4076 kim Mon, 08 Jun 2009 19:07:29 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4076 The person above brings up a good point: if you are not able to climb it without bolts, are mechanical hauling rigs ok to use? or would this make it not a "real" climb? i think you should not add bolts, but i don't think you should use mechanical wall hauler rigs either, although i could see wanting to, just to get up something that looks like this, meaning this cool. and be careful with this 70 foot fall on aliens, because this sounds very dangerous. are you always living in this type of danger? i hope not. The person above brings up a good point: if you are not able to climb it without bolts, are mechanical hauling rigs ok to use? or would this make it not a “real” climb?

i think you should not add bolts, but i don’t think you should use mechanical wall hauler rigs either, although i could see wanting to, just to get up something that looks like this, meaning this cool.

and be careful with this 70 foot fall on aliens, because this sounds very dangerous. are you always living in this type of danger? i hope not.

]]> By: Steve Traversari http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4075 Steve Traversari Mon, 08 Jun 2009 17:25:53 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4075 Hey Sonnie, I've been checking in for days now awaiting the next update and this last post doesn't disappoint. I'd say you have quite a bit of wisdom for such a young guy. I know all about having too many things on the go, but in my case it's a bunch of stuff completely unrelated to climbing. In my expereince it's no good to spread yourself too thin, but I'm not sure that's not likely your case. I hope you don't put a bolt on that new project. It would be a shame if in fact it does take safe pro and it got bolted just so that you can send it. I'm sure you'll send it at some point, if you don't spread yourself too thin. Not to say that my opinion carries any weight. If I had any chance of making it up that, it would have to involve some mechanical hauling rig from the top. But if I could ever have such a project, I wouldn't bolt it. Cheers, Steve PS. How about some stuff on training or gear placement for your next post? Hey Sonnie,
I’ve been checking in for days now awaiting the next update and this last post doesn’t disappoint. I’d say you have quite a bit of wisdom for such a young guy. I know all about having too many things on the go, but in my case it’s a bunch of stuff completely unrelated to climbing. In my expereince it’s no good to spread yourself too thin, but I’m not sure that’s not likely your case.
I hope you don’t put a bolt on that new project. It would be a shame if in fact it does take safe pro and it got bolted just so that you can send it. I’m sure you’ll send it at some point, if you don’t spread yourself too thin. Not to say that my opinion carries any weight. If I had any chance of making it up that, it would have to involve some mechanical hauling rig from the top. But if I could ever have such a project, I wouldn’t bolt it.
Cheers,
Steve
PS. How about some stuff on training or gear placement for your next post?

]]> By: Olivier http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/06/06/phase-two/comment-page-1/#comment-4074 Olivier Mon, 08 Jun 2009 15:21:12 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1548#comment-4074 That route looks sick! That route looks sick!

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