Sorry for the delay in posts, and thanks for the emails ya’ll, I’ve been neglecting lately, ooops. I’m not one for a daily routine. I’d much rather be outside running around like a dirty fool than running errands in town or washing my car. I despise standing in lines, I hate going to the bank or entering the post office. Once you’ve taken a 70 foot lead fall on a yellow TCU and your hearts pumped that glorious vitamin A (drenalin) into your blood stream, or felt the solid tug of a pinky lock at 1200 feet, it seems like a trip to City’s Municipal office lacks all things exciting and real. A torturous event. But that’s exactly what I’ve been doing. Lydia and I recently bought a small townhouse in Squamish, we are both excited and terrified at the same time. It was the cheapest place on the market, but all things considered it felt good, it felt right. So we took the plunge and I’ve been buried in lawyer fees and property tax bills ever since. Who knew owning a house was going to be so much responsibility? But you know what they say, ‘If you want to keep your feet on the ground, put some responsibility on your shoulders’. I don’t know much in this world, in fact, the older I get the less I know about anything, but here’s what I do know, I LOVE climbing, I LOVE my little lady, and I LOVE Squamish. So what better place to call home and invest what little money you make? I believe there comes a time in everyones existence when we discover that we are the true directors of our lives, the master gardener of our souls. It was time for us to make a commitment to the place and the things we love. On top of that, I’ve been working, guiding a whole bunch and trying to keep Uncle Sam at bay. It’s a struggle, no doubt, an swim upstream, but doing it now while I have the energy seems like a good strategy. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, this weekend I am going to Levenworth to put on a free slide show at the climbers Fest, then on Sunday busting out a few pitches at Index. After that I have three weeks until another stint of work, so I’ll be attempting a few of my projects on lead.
Here’s one I have in mind, a 5.13d vs (very serious). It’s a brilliant line, powerful, bullet hard and direct as all hell. It finishes on a stunning Peter Croft route, Big Daddy Overhang, 5.12b. The issue with this climb again, is whether or not to add a bolt or three. If I add a bolt, I’ll send it next try, and the adventure again would be over, a boring clip up. If I don’t, I can extend the experience, I can build up to it, I can steady my mind and prepare my body for the ascent. I see these climbs as an opportunity to explore myself, ourselves, to observe how I might behave on the sharp end, runout with a possible disaster lurking a few meters below my feet. I wonder how much control I have over my body’s nerves. I wonder. I wonder. So many questions. This and a couple of others may be the more dangerous climbs I’ve considered in the higher grade range. All the other 5.13+ or 5.14 routes I’ve done have next to zero chance of death or injury. These ones do. I’ll keep you posted. Much love to everyone, and now that summer is upon us, the season that makes us suffer and like it, the season that produces fresh produce, the long days and short nights, I say go jump in a lake and run far away from your computers. I gotta go, Will Stanhope (my ride to Levenworth) is here and he ain’t waiting for nobody.