Sonnie Trotter

Yoga in the Park + Fitness World = Sushi.

Monday, June 29th, 2009

If you are visiting Squamish this summer and you enjoy a refreshing session of conscious breathing and tension releasing exercises, then go to The Yoga Studio on 2nd Ave any day of the week. But if you are here only for a Sunday, then you gotta check out “yoga in the park”. My girlfriend Lydia taught yesterdays class and there will be different teacher there each week, as there have been different teachers in weeks prior. The fee is by donation only, so whatever you can afford. But imagine this..

…unfolding your mat onto a perfectly cut lawn of green grass and three leaf clovers at 9am in the morning. The sun filters through the tall trees, warming your skin and illuminating the park. 25 people in a circle wrapped around the teacher, with a gentle breeze behind your ears and the occasional cyclist riding by. The ground beneath you is not a hardwood floor, but the earth itself, you can feel the subtle bumps under your toes, but it makes you smile. The class is rhythm and flow, a constant state of moving, bending and twisting, lunging and holding, all the stuff we know we should be doing but just can’t seem to make the time for, then after about an hour and fifteen minutes, the heart rate comes back down slowly, you invert into a shoulder stand, headstand whatever you like and feel the rush of newly oxygenated blood surging through the stream, the abdomen releases, the tension disappears, you are weightless and calm and the sound of each chirping bird in the distance falls quite, the sound of your breath is the only thing you hear. You take a deep inhale of the freshest mountain air and unwind into corpse pose, eyes closed, hovering above the ground until the electricity in your body is reduced to nothing more than light waves of energy scanning over you. Ten minutes pass, it may as well be a lifetime, your lids open tenderly and look up to see the bubbling white clouds taking shape. You are now ready to begin your day. Your perfect day.

That is the best way I can describe yoga in the park to you, that’s what it was for me, here’s what it looks like when you look up into the leaves.

Later in the day, after coffee and breakfast, Lydia, Lil Ben and I went to Rogues Gallery and climbed some OUTSTANDING rock. Ben wanted to show me a classic sport climb called Fitness World. Apparently a hold broke and it hasn’t seen much traffic since, but we got the scoop and two of our friends had in fact climbed it since without the new sequence changing the grade much. Probably hard 5.13c, with a stout boulder problem in the middle. It’s a full 30 meter pitch I recon, pumpy as all hell. Ben had been on the climb before and we exchanged beta to unlock a good set of moves. Ben did the climb on his second try that day, BIG WHOOOP on that. I had a little less luck. On my second try, I couldn’t pull the moves I had worked out, I got flustered and invented a new sequence on the fly, just barely missing the jug. I stuck it off the dog, went to the top and lowered, off. Surely I would tick it on my third try. ha ha, not soo. I climbed up into it and missed the blind throw around the corner I thought would be so easy. I hate underestimating low percentage moves. So, I had to work out a third way of doing it. I climbed to the top again to make sure I remembered how and lowered off, ready to go home and eat sushi.

On the ground I was surprisingly tired. Only three burns and I was worked. But Ben decided he would try a nearby 5.12, he fell, and had to tinker with the moves, which allowed me enough time to recover again. After a 20 minute rest, I ran back up to the highpoint, the sun on the edge of the horizon, just sparkling off the wall behind me, and I stuck the move with heavy arms, my breath carried me to the top. I was a little bit pumped, but not nearly as much as I thought I’d be. I haven’t sport climbed like this in a long time, it felt good to redpoint on a fourth try of such a long endurance testing route, it also felt good to crimp and pimp again, instead of squeezing slopers all the time or jamming cracks. God I love climbing. What an awesome line, thanks to Marc Bourdon for establishing it and to Ben for showing it to me.

So, speaking of Lil Ben, or Ben Harnden as some of you may know him, here is a short clip of him sending No Troublems (Loh) hard V10. He made quick work of the line, and for those of you who don’t know him, he’s been a local hero for some time, a bit of a darkhorse, a workhorse, and a truly talented individual. Check out the clip, and gasp as he campuses the final move over the slab, you know, the really scary move that may result in a hospital trip if you blow it, yah that one, and if you climb the problem in the near future, imagine doing that move without feet? A wee bit intimidating I might say….

Loh Troublems V10, Ben Harnden from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

| Posted in Climbing | 5 Comments »

Back on the Crack, eh!

Thursday, June 18th, 2009

Greetings radical beings. I have to admit, it’s been a hard couple of weeks on the whole web updating front, I just can’t seem to sit down long enough to write much, sure it was all fun and easy when the nights were 18 hours long, but these days it’s the flip side and I’m packing so much into my days that I got nuthin left over for the poor lonely flat screen. It ain’t that nuthin’s happening, of course shits happening, and it’s happening all the time, I’m just too lazy and pathetic to actually write words about it. Sorry, punter, I know. But this time I got a real treat for you and it’s for YOUR eyes only, the eyes who keep dropping in to say a friendly hello, to read the dribble, this buds for you, cause I appreciate you stopping in, it helps me keep my shit together. So thanks, give yourself a nice gentle pat on the back, or ass if you prefer, or the ass of the closest female to your current position. Whatever you like. Here we go…

Blogging, so who invented it? What’s it really good for anyway? Besides the obvious things like – bragging and bitching? Well, VIDEO for one. Shit, yah. Blogging is good for video and since I have nothing to brag or bitch about I think I’ll share a little video clip of my buddy Big Willy Stanhope. He’s a super bro super hero. Not only a good guy through the thick and thin, but also a gnarly rock climber who gets his kicks on granite towers and tiny finger cracks. This year he’s been putting in many days trying to take down the Cobra Crack. Seems like the next logical step after slaying the Monkey. He’s worked the line into a one hang situation, but can’t link over the bulge yet. The crack itself has never been the crux, it’s the whole lip encounter thing. Last year the climb got repeated three times, by VERY capable 5.14+ climbers, they all used a new sequence which involves flipping upside down and heel hooking over your head in a fancy heel toe cam. Some crazy shit. Yesterday, I went up with Will to watch him send and to take a run up the climb myself to see what was up with all these new ascents, ha ha. As it turns out, the new beta is slightly easier, it’s true, the sequence is practically backwards right from the start, and it’s got a much more enjoyable exit. Nico called the line 5.14b, and it took Ethan Pringle something like seven or eight days, so it’s got to be a least a little bit hard, but I don’t think the new sequence is nearly as “insecure” as the old way Dedier and I were trying it. Shit, I wish I had this beta five years ago. Ha ha ha, I suppose that’s the way life goes, you save up all year to buy yourself a new computer only to watch your best friend buy the exact same one for half price two weeks later. Now ain’t that a bitch? Wink. But here’s the best part, the new beta is actually MUCH more enjoyable and exciting and I shot GREAT video of Will nearly hitting the second to last hold before slipping out and falling ass first into the side wall below. On his second attempt…..well…..I don’t want to give it away…..watch it…..oh and sorry about the cell phone, bad timing…..we’re still trying to nail that guy for questioning…..possible sabotage…..

The Cobra Crack 5.14, Will Stanhope from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

| Posted in Climbing | 8 Comments »

Just an update!

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009

For those of you who don’t know, there is an EXCELLENT blog/website dedicated to our three friends who went missing in China on June 3rd, I know this won’t turn back the clock, but it does help to know exactly what’s going on. It helps to see and view and read all about the people who loved them and pitched in to help the search. The list is too long to mention, but their efforts are appreciated greatly. Please check out the site and while visiting consider making a donation to the search fund if you can. www.adventurefilm.org

Please enjoy this video I found on the site, I’m sorry if you’ve seen it already, I just think it’s wonderful to share their fire with as many people as possible. Thanks again to all the hardworking people who helped put this together, it brought a ray of sunlight into my living room this week.

Tribute to Jonny, Micah and Wade (updated) from Ben Alexandra on Vimeo.

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Memories!

Monday, June 15th, 2009

It’s been more than a week since I first heard the sad news about our dear friends Micah Dash, Jonny Copp and Wade Johnson.  It has taken some time to sink in.  The news felt surreal initially, like a fabrication and I think a part of me refused to believe it at first, until I heard they positively identified Jonny’s body.  That was a BIG hit to all of us.  And I say ‘us’ as in everyone these giant men touched during their adventure on earth.  Family, friends, fans, we are all grieving over this sad loss and I wish those the closest to them my most sincere condolences.  May each of these inspirational men rest in peace and may their lust for life live on for endless generations.   Legends never die.

The last time I saw Jonny was in Ventura California.  I had taken some photographs that I was quite pleased with, he gave me his approval, which meant the world to me considering his reputation as a leading outdoor photographer.  Not only did he give me encouragement, but he set aside his own project (with his adventure film festival) and taught me how to set up my photographs more ‘professionally’.  I felt I was being selfish, I knew he had work to do, but I couldn’t turn down his advice, besides he kept insisting to help.  In the end, he had me set up with a new FTP account, a new photo program and a new way of submitting them, he even gave me some of his contacts at various publications in case the opportunity ever arised.  The world is full of beautiful people, amazing kindness and selfless energy, but I don’t know how many people would have put in as much effort as Jonny did, I don’t know how many people would have gone the extra mile.  It was such a small favor, but it left a lasting impression on me, I feel it is the same with everyone who Jonny met…he constantly left behind the most sincere impressions.  He was not only a friend, and an ambassador of Patagonia, he was an ambassador of love and the human spirit.

I knew Micah better than I knew Jonny, only because I would see Micah more often, allowing us more time to talk, drink and be merry.  Micah was one of those cats who befriended EVERYONE because he was such an outgoing and charming character.  He had a very level head and he was easy to talk to under any circumstance.  He brought humor to every interaction, and constantly reminded us to leave “serious” at the front door.  From my perspective, Micah saw the world as an open playground, a silly playground, and he kept it that way, if ever people or situations got too serious he would be the first one to crack a joke and allow the people around him to relax and start having fun again.  He exuded funness and we love him for that always.  I saw Micah on video before I met him in person, he was climbing Rubys Cafe I believe in the Return to Sender Film by Peter Mortimer, I recall giggling to myself as he crushed the 5.13 without “getting pumped” as he said.  But when he pulled some Bruce Lee action on the camera after Timmy O’neil started poking his nipples, I thought, now this dude is someone I gotta go climbing with.   Although I did drink with him, party with him, discuss the vices and virtues of life with him, I am sad to say I never shared a rope with him,  that’s something I would have cherished, swapping leads with Micah Dash, he’s like the super hero his name suggests and he too carved permanent memories for all.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get to know Wade Johnson, although from what I hear and read, he sounds as genuine and as solid as they make ‘em these days.  I would have liked Wade, I just know it.  Everyone liked him.

Death is a fact of life, perhaps the only true fact there is, yet still, we just never expect our hero’s to fall so suddenly, so full of youth.  I am sad, there is no other way to say it, I am sad they passed, I am sad life takes away, but I am happy they had the courage to live their lives the way they did outloud and for real.  They have inspired thousands upon thousands of climbers, skiers, photographers and basically anyone who is trying to accomplish anything in this wild world of ours, you have shown us how to live the good life boys, and for that we salute you and celebrate you.  Our hearts are filled with memories!

Sonnie

| Posted in Climbing | 2 Comments »

phase two!

Saturday, June 6th, 2009

Sorry for the delay in posts, and thanks for the emails ya’ll, I’ve been neglecting lately, ooops.  I’m not one for a daily routine.  I’d much rather be outside running around like a dirty fool than running errands in town or washing my car.  I despise standing in lines, I hate going to the bank or entering the post office.  Once you’ve taken a 70 foot lead fall on a yellow TCU and your hearts pumped that glorious vitamin A (drenalin) into your blood stream, or felt the solid tug of a pinky lock at 1200 feet, it seems like a trip to City’s Municipal office lacks all things exciting and real.  A torturous event.  But that’s exactly what I’ve been doing.  Lydia and I recently bought a small townhouse in Squamish, we are both excited and terrified at the same time.  It was the cheapest place on the market, but all things considered it felt good, it felt right.  So we took the plunge and I’ve been buried in lawyer fees and property tax bills ever since.  Who knew owning a house was going to be so much responsibility?   But you know what they say, ‘If you want to keep your feet on the ground, put some responsibility on your shoulders’.   I don’t know much in this world, in fact, the older I get the less I know about anything, but here’s what I do know, I LOVE climbing, I LOVE my little lady, and I LOVE Squamish. So what better place to call home and invest what little money you make?  I believe there comes a time in everyones existence when we discover that we are the true directors of our lives, the master gardener of our souls. It was time for us to make a commitment to the place and the things we love.   On top of that, I’ve been working, guiding a whole bunch and trying to keep Uncle Sam at bay.  It’s a struggle, no doubt, an swim upstream, but doing it now while I have the energy seems like a good strategy.  I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, this weekend I am going to Levenworth to put on a free slide show at the climbers Fest, then on Sunday busting out a few pitches at Index.  After that I have three weeks until another stint of work, so I’ll be attempting a few of my projects on lead.  

Here’s one I have in mind, a 5.13d vs (very serious).  It’s a brilliant line, powerful, bullet hard and direct as all hell.  It finishes on a stunning Peter Croft route, Big Daddy Overhang, 5.12b.  The issue with this climb again, is whether or not to add a bolt or three.  If I add a bolt, I’ll send it next try, and the adventure again would be over, a boring clip up.  If I don’t, I can extend the experience, I can build up to it, I can steady my mind and prepare my body for the ascent.  I see these climbs as an opportunity to explore myself, ourselves, to observe how I might behave on the sharp end, runout with a possible disaster lurking a few meters below my feet.  I wonder how much control I have over my body’s nerves.  I wonder.  I wonder.  So many questions.  This and a couple of others may be the more dangerous climbs I’ve considered in the higher grade range.  All the other 5.13+ or 5.14 routes I’ve done have next to zero chance of death or injury.  These ones do.  I’ll keep you posted.  Much love to everyone, and now that summer is upon us, the season that makes us suffer and like it, the season that produces fresh produce, the long days and short nights, I say go jump in a lake and run far away from your computers.  I gotta go, Will Stanhope (my ride to Levenworth) is here and he ain’t waiting for nobody.

PEACE.

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