Just stumbled upon your note.
I’ve got nothing but respect for your effort. It was way ahead of its time.

For me, it was just a wild experience to climb that upper section without bolts. It wasn’t an ethical decision by any means- in fact I used the bolts to initially set up a toprope.
I just wanted that heart-pounding sensation in my chest at the top of that impeccable line.

Thanks for the inspiration Alan!

-will stanhope

But I thought I’d clear up a common misconception about my ascent of the East Face 25 years ago. Never once, on any attempt of my East Face attempts, did I pre-place any gear. No nuts, no quick draws.

I redpointed the upper section free (I think 1984 or maybe 85), from the mid-point hanging belay to the top, placing all gear on lead (one #3 RP & three #4 RPs – I still remember after 25 years). There were no preplaced nuts or draws on this section. Of course, I clipped the upper line of bolts. Shortly after that, I did Grand Illusion with no preplaced gear in two days. I was sure the upper section of the East Face, in itself, was harder.

The next year I returned to do the pitch in a single lead from the ground. I placed all gear on lead every attempt, getting past all the nut placements to the last hard move above the second bolt on the final traverse. I think I did this three times from the ground, each time carrying a rack of gear, stripping out all the wires and draws after each failed attempt. Unfortunately, with a trip to Yosemite planned the next day, on my last try I lowered off from the second traverse bolt, and yo-yo’d to the top, clipping one more bolt. I never returned (which, looking back, was kind of stupid of me). Placing gear on the lead made the route a notch harder I always thought – it was surely just 5.13c if you could just clip the rope into preplaced draws the whole way up. I was always disappointed that every subsequent ascent just laced the crack with preplaced gear the whole way (at least until you came along).

Anyway, I have tremendous admiration for your effort on the East Face, and so many other climbs around the country. You, and others like you, have taken the sport far, far beyond what I ever imagined possible.

Good luck and cheers!