SHA-BAM

So this is cool shit. Just another example of how and why I believe in hangboard training over other forms.  Check this out from 8a.nu – Letitzia Columbo (age 51) a.k.a “Super Titta” has done Calvalveri Selvaggi, 8a+ (5.13c) in Sperionga.  It has a 20 meter roof section in the dell’areonauta cave.  When Letitzia was 40 she did her first 7a.  The secret she says is dead-hang training (aka fingerboarding) as she has had a back problem for over a year.

Oh Man, – it’s spring time and there is soo many cool things happening.  I wish there were two of me sometimes, so I could be in two places at once.  This World is just too beautiful for one set of eyes, and there is too much climbing to do for just one set of arms and legs.  Do you ever feel that way?  Like you’re missing out?  For example, I LOVE Squamish, I mean, I really LOVE it, I could be like Ron Kauk is with the Valley and just never leave this place.  In fact, today is yet another gorgeous sunny day, so we are going bouldering at 2pm.  It stayed light yesterday until about 7:50pm, sooooo exciting.  If anything rad goes down I’ll let you know, there’s a strong crew in Squampton these days, and they are only getting stronger.

But if I could, the other “me” would probably be in Boulder right now, or maybe Britain, or in Spain.  Matt Segal lead a new climb that’s been sitting there for a while.  I think the moves were top roped before but certainly never lead, so BIG PROPS to Segal, check out his funny blog about writing.  Also, Matt Wilder is in Boulder trying to climb Iron Monkey 5.14.  Ethan Pringle (of course) made the second ascent of this short and tasty pitch, and said it felt pretty hard.  Well that’s nice because it shows that Ethan too has to bend his elbows from time to time.  ha.  I worked on Iron Monkey for a couple of weeks back in the spring of 2006.  It was actually still very wintery, early March-ish.  I can’t remember how many times I tried it, maybe 5 days and I think I may have stuck the dyno once, off the dog, with perfect timing, setting and evertyhing.  Climbing into the dyno wasn’t that bad and I could link after the dyno pretty easily, but linking it all together was a whole ‘nother story.  I’ve been told from many people that it’s a lot harder if you’re taller, but I’m not sure, I just think it’s a lot harder if you’re weaker.  I’m not a boulderer so to me it felt desperate,  V12+ probably.  But I think it’s great fun, I like having lines out there that oppose to my style, makes me want to keep striving.  Maybe I’ll be back in November.  In the meantime good luck to Wilder.

Ben Bransby the polite, and well spoken bad-ass climber from England has made yet another brilliant first ascent, and this is just me talking here, but tell me,  honestly, is this not one of the most striking boulder problems you’ve ever seen?  Man, what I’d give for just one slap.

The Big Up Productions crew is back in full swing as well, they seem to have their plate full with many a filming projects.  Did you see the stuff they did in NY?   Angelic.

Quite frankly, I hate the word BLOG, it pisses me right off.  But I love bloggers.  I love spending 15 or 20 minutes a day and learning about all the radness/sickness that’s happening around the world, I love when people show us pictures and tell us stories, because they are representing for the guys and girls who wish “we had two of us”.  I wish I could be in Spain right now, falling off some world class 5.14b, wishing I had stayed at the rest for a few more breaths, or wishing I had twisted into that pocket just a little more instead of rushing it.  I wish I could be sitting in the shade instead of searching for sun.  I wish I could be in Boulder, climbing with Matt, taking calculated risks and sticking that dyno.  But I’m not, I’m here in Squamish with my thoughts, my high speed internet, my beautiful lady, our climbing/yoga lifestyle.

On that note, I think it’s about time, the other me, went climbing, for REAL.  I can dream of having two ME’s, being in two places, having two experiences (at least) but really, the best of life is being in the present moment, being right here where you are, and here I am.  Squamish.  So I’ll pack my bag, roll up my pad and head for the granite blocs that are calling my name.

To all the people out there willing to share your adventures, poems, art and thoughts,  thank you and keep it up, you keep me centered in a different way, you keep me alive, inspired and dreaming and yet present at the very same time.  Namaste.

  • elias

    well… it’s so good to hear(or read) of someone as gifted like you being very honest and humble and brave, all at the same time. It’s so good to read people from all over the world writing about their experiences and failures, how they came back and kicked the shit out. I feel like we are in the same level just wanting more and more, and trying not to forget why we came here in the first place……..TO ENJOY LIFE, TO GIVE LOVE AND RESPECT TO THE EARTH AND EVERYONE AROUND US. Yeah I know it’s pretty cheesy….i hate it too, but it’s the truth. All is one, one is all. thanks to YOU sonnie.

  • Bill D

    Nice one Sonnie 🙂
    Bill

  • Thanks for putting into words why I love this crazy blogosphere. Yours is actually the blog that turned me onto this little media microcosm, but I think I may have mentioned that to you at the Red, like a little fanboy. Haha. Great work, Sonnie. Thanks!

  • Man! I totally feel you! My climbing partner/friend/roommate is headed to our beloved red river gorge this weekend and I am so tweaked that I am not headed there with her, yet I am also excited about my plans to travel south this weekend as well. Why can’t we just be content – but, no – instead, feel like we’re missing out on fun even though what we are doing is pretty awesome as well. arg. life.

    And yea, that boulder and view look totally sick!

  • That Ben Bransby boulder pic is now my desktop wallpaper.
    Beautiful.

  • Nick

    Hey sonny I just watched the ‘cobra crack’ and it was fucking amazing. Im not much of a crack man well not much of a climber anymore but I did used to E5 ,6b (Just out of interest what is that in ‘American’?). There is something so amazing about that route it has really gripped me and Im gonna start climbing again after a twenty year lay off, I doubt I would make up cobra crack but im gonna try, try fucking hard maybe get the oldest ascent I should be about fifty by the time I get my strength back. Thanks for getting me off da couch!

  • Sonnie

    Yah Nick,

    Not sure the grade translation, but it doesn’t matter, get over here and get up on it, you won’t be let down. There are climbers from all over the world coming to lock it up this summer, so you’ll have lot’s of motivation O promise. I’m so glad I could have an effect on you, and thanks a TRILLION for your kind words, you’ve got me pretty fired up in return, I want to climb FOREVER! I’ll start with tomorrow. All day.

  • Nick

    Hey maybe I will be there although it is way too hard for me now I cant do ten chin-ups right now but Im gonna start training again. I would really like to know how the american grades work coz I dont wanna get on some grip fest and scare myself shitless well not in the beginning anyway. That is what happened before and I had to get rescued of a gritstone horror show. I live in boston now but I grew up climbing on grit in sheffield (my home town). One thing I meant to ask you, do you ever climb on gritstone? I thought it would be right up your alley being a solid trad man. A man with your talents you could probably grab a few second ascents good routes. I did alot of them, the not so hard ones on top rope, but never led any of ’em ……….scared the crap outta me. If you are ever in the UK go to curbar and try beau geste, a real test piece and linden too, there are so many….. thanks mate anyway, I have to say I like yer style.