A friend of mine sent me this clip, and I know it has nothing to do with climbing rocks, but it has everything to do with the world we live in. Please ignore the cheesy guy at the beginning, I nearly turned it off because of him, but stick with it and I think you’ll enjoy what is being shared. What I love the most about this clip is it’s unbiased approach, the journalist who is obviously an amateur with a big future, simply shows us facts, and what needs to be shown with beautiful music while leaving the opinions up to us as viewers. This is good journalism, a lesson we all can adapt for ourselves. Some more than others, including myself, smirk. Enjoy.
So, I’ve been neglecting my true blogging duties lately, I’ve been dribbling about climbing paparazzi and repointing tactics while I should be sharing what’s been going on in the climbing front. I’ll give you a short fix, the Squamish climbing scene has been strong, the weather has been UNREAL this winter and shit is getting accomplished. Nothing truly ground breaking, but why should it be? Yesterday I bagged the FA of my slab project, aka, ‘Robin Barley’s slab project’ after relocating the second bolt. At first inspection I thought it could be really hard, about 5.13, but yesterday I sent it easily with no warm-up and feel it will settle around the 5.12b/c mark. Or if you prefer, the 5.12 mark. I feel it’s nearly impossible to grade a slab accurately, there are 5.9’s, 10’s, 11’s and 12’s but putting a single letter grade on something so delicate and condition dependent is a futile endevour. Also, and even more exciting Andrew Boyd found a hold up and left from the easier exit and wants to continue over the final bulge to make the line complete. It’s going to be much harder then the slab climbing below, but with a big rest in between. The protection bolt is now in place and it’s ready to fire. Any takers? It’s going to be a new age balancing act, an instant classic. The other news is that I thought we found a 5.13d arete in our back yard, a granite sport climb of stunning proportions. Unfortunately, after a good top-roping session it didn’t work out this way, it was a forced line and not worthy of a single bolt. A true disappointment. So, I went back out afterwards and found a tiny slot for a pin and a nut, it’s probably going to settle around fun and exciting 5.13- R/X, which is even better than the 5.13+ contrived sport climb because now we don’t have to put in any bolts and the climber is asked to follow the path of least resistance. The way it should be. The climb is high quality, and reminds me a little bit of Boyds other line, Bruce Lee vs the Kiss Army 5.13b R/X and is not at all unlike the gritstone leads of Stanage. The catch is, it’s a serious line, you simply CANNOT fall after the first (hardest) crux. But I’m not sure I want to lead it just yet, I know I can, I know it’s good enough but the question of injury lingers, is it worth it? After all, it makes for a wonderful toprope. Today the sun is shinning AGAIN, and it may come down to a brief moment of inspiration.
Here are some pictures of us goofing around on the smoke bluffs. sorry, no 5.14’s today and no professional photography, just me, a group of friends and a point and shoot style. Hope you enjoy regardless.
Warming up with a few beers in the driveway of my house. Beefcake on the left, me (dork) in the middle and too cool for School Weldon.
On top of the bluffs, not a soul in sight, looking out over the downtown core, I’ve noticed Squamish is getting quite a bit busier during these last few years, but hasn’t lost its redneck charm.
Chris, charging up Power Windows, 5.11. Five Stars.
The look of uncertainty. Go right mate, go right.
Chris engaging himself on the slabby arete, a wee runout leads to a bolt which leads to the anchor, solid good fun and a must do winter climb. That reminds me, whoever keeps saying that Squamish is only a summer place was right, seriously, don’t come here, it’s shit and it really does rain all the time, please, do yourself a favor, he he, stay home, and if you live in Vancouver, go to the gym, it’s not worth the drive.
Kevin having his turn on power windows. Too bad the view sucks ass. Get em tiger.
Classic butt shot. Sorry. This is me enjoying the thrill of Andrew Boyd’s 5.12+ direct start to Werewolves of London, likely the best finger crack in the bluffs. The slab in reference follows the red rope to my left.
The Chief. Sundown. NUff said.