Sunny Days in January

For locals, it’s called Sunny Days in December, but not anymore, now we can include January too. It’s been almost two weeks of pure hot sun and there is more on the way. The best part about Squamish is the rock dries so damn fast, we can all be out climbing within half a day after a rain spell. Life is good now, and we need to appreciate that NOW, for the clouds will come back (they always do) and we’ll be back to the hangboards and woody’s and yoga mats. But this will keep our spirits high and carry us until the next dry spell in February and before long it will be March, the best sending temps on this planet. Today is like any other day, good music, rich coffee, then bacon and eggs at Big D’s on main street, half a dozen of us will rally up to the cliffs before noon and we’ll be in t-shirts pimpin down on finger locks and foot smears. It’s a great time of year to try the more obscure climbs, the ones in between the classics with all the traffic, and they’re just as much fun when you give them a good try. Take for example the 5.12- just to the right of “Climb and Punishment” soo goood.   I hope everyone is having a stellar new year so far.

This is me looking like a total douche bag, trying to get some UV rays on those pale shoulders of mine, at least I wasn’t the only douche with bad hair at the crag that day, but I’m not allowed to post “those other” pictures. bummer. The climb above is relatively unknown (an arms length from Piggys Perversions 5.8) and goes at about 5.11c – very scary arete slab climbing, I took my first leader fall of the year on this trying to clip, knocking off my own hand, (total punter move) and taking a ride that wrapped me around the blunt nose. I think it’s confidence building, you know, to get a whipper out of the way early in the season, a good program for the mind. Especially because it was unintended and sudden. Any jitters I had left the body after that, and I climbed with so much more rhythm.

This is a great angle of Crime of the Century, 5.11c. It really shows the texture, on days like these, I think it’s the best rock in the world, and dare I say it, even better than grit?

Chris Weldon here yesterday, trying to remind himself that he’s not just locking up a tasty crack, but he’s on a slab too, it takes a while to feel them both. I see a lot of climbers early in the season before they begin to trust their feet cranking hard off the hand jams and finger locks like they’re in the gym, only later to recall that they can get away with really good footwork and a strong BIG TOE. Climbing vert is more about balance than power.

Here Chris is trying to find that special piece of gear. Let me guess…a yellow alien perhaps? Any fan of Squamish climbing will know this is the CHOICE camming unit. It’s the “get me out of trouble” piece. When Chris plugged this little gadget in, there fell a sigh of relief over all the valley.

Here Weldon stretches it out to a bomber lock.

Andrew Boyd, sans shirt, making quick work of an area CLASSIC. Sunny Days in December 5.12b/c is a winter climb, an old Peter Croft special that still repels some valiant attempts to this day. Prepare to feel the funk. Oh and that special left hand undercling, well the thumbcatch broke (for those in the know) and it’s a wee smidgen harder now. Have fun up there.

I’m not sure what this is.

Lydia top-roping 5.11 slab. She should have been a ballerina the way she dances. I wish I had that sort of core strength. If you don’t think core helps on low angle (as well as the steeps), you don’t know yogis.

  • jono

    LOL, my get out of jail piece is my yellow alien too…and my green comes a very close second. its good to know not much changes internationally.

  • yen

    That’s a photo of me taking a photo of Lydia climbing Grumpy Old Men!

  • Hesser

    Yup, pretty great when you can dial some harder stuff early in the year!! Thanks for the laps on Crime late in the day….. my fingers are still screaming!

  • Great post, thanks for the info