Comments on: Open discussion http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/ Professional Rock Climber, Amateur Photographer, Videographer, Writer, Guide, Speaker, Runner, Squamish Local, Nature Worshiper, Mountain Addict, Lydia Love Slave, Aspiring Carpenter, Soccer Enthusiast, Surfer Wannabe Wed, 16 May 2012 22:30:07 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: caroline http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-2/#comment-3529 caroline Fri, 30 Jan 2009 15:49:43 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3529 Hey Sonnie Thought you might like to read a blog post by a friend. It is on a similarish kind of path to your discussion, well maybe not, but worth a wee look anyway, might make you chuckle if nothing else. http://samsworldofpain.blogspot.com/ Hope you well x Hey Sonnie
Thought you might like to read a blog post by a friend. It is on a similarish kind of path to your discussion, well maybe not, but worth a wee look anyway, might make you chuckle if nothing else.

http://samsworldofpain.blogspot.com/

Hope you well
x

]]> By: Sonnie http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-2/#comment-3507 Sonnie Tue, 27 Jan 2009 20:21:31 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3507 Ha. I think you're right Joe, I never noticed. Danger, danger. Ha. I think you’re right Joe, I never noticed. Danger, danger.

]]> By: Joe http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-2/#comment-3496 Joe Mon, 26 Jan 2009 15:28:05 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3496 Is it just me or is Adam going to back clip? Is it just me or is Adam going to back clip?

]]> By: Brendan http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-1/#comment-3493 Brendan Sun, 25 Jan 2009 13:35:18 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3493 By the way, it's been so nice to read an interesting climbing forum discussion, rather than just ENDLESS grade debates. More open discussions please! By the way, it’s been so nice to read an interesting climbing forum discussion, rather than just ENDLESS grade debates.
More open discussions please!

]]> By: Dave Swarbrick http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-1/#comment-3490 Dave Swarbrick Fri, 23 Jan 2009 22:45:04 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3490 there's a classic photo of John Dunne on that hard welsh slate route, if you look at his forearm it almost looks as though the muscle almost carries on past his wrist and stops at the palm of his hand. certainly not the short stubby bit of muscle ( chicken leg ) many of us possess. However we still see some very tenacious athletes who don't give a toss about their genetics and just keep plugging away until there very very strong. As a community were all getting much stronger and these blogs fuel an environment were we all want to get stronger. It will be great to do all those routes I aspire to by being part of the new average. there’s a classic photo of John Dunne on that hard welsh slate route, if you look at his forearm it almost looks as though the muscle almost carries on past his wrist and stops at the palm of his hand. certainly not the short stubby bit of muscle ( chicken leg ) many of us possess. However we still see some very tenacious athletes who don’t give a toss about their genetics and just keep plugging away until there very very strong. As a community were all getting much stronger and these blogs fuel an environment were we all want to get stronger. It will be great to do all those routes I aspire to by being part of the new average.

]]> By: ktmt http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-1/#comment-3485 ktmt Thu, 22 Jan 2009 18:54:26 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3485 second that! As Rob says above, "it is about being the best we can be." And as Sonnie just added, within the bounds and constraints of each individual life. No whining, make the best effort we can make, and draw inspiration from everyone who tries hard. second that! As Rob says above, “it is about being the best we can be.” And as Sonnie just added, within the bounds and constraints of each individual life. No whining, make the best effort we can make, and draw inspiration from everyone who tries hard.

]]> By: sock hands http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-1/#comment-3484 sock hands Thu, 22 Jan 2009 17:23:56 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3484 well spoken, sonnie. well spoken, sonnie.

]]> By: Sonnie http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-1/#comment-3481 Sonnie Wed, 21 Jan 2009 21:15:47 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3481 WOW, some truly amazing feedback. It seems like everyone has a slightly different perspective and insight, which is good, it shows us that we're very unique, driven and inspired in different ways. I've wanted to make comments at various times throughout this discussion, but found it more interesting to sit back and listen, take it all in. Thanks so much to everyone for sharing, I never would have guessed. The funny thing is, this is a question with no answer, only opinions. Not even the athletes themselves can answer, because they don't know either. If I had to express my opinion, I think I may have some friction, because I lean more towards genetic physical strength than anything else, actually, to make that more clear, strength to weight ratio. After all, that's all climbing boils down to, strength to weight ratio, and I feel these athletes have a better ratio than most of us. That's the bottom line. Did you ever read that Sports Illustrated Issue dedicated to the Olympics, where doctors and scientists basically say that 95 percent of the athletes in the Olympics are there based strictly on genetics. Which means, average joe could train and dedicate his entire life like the devil himself to the 100 meter dash and will never approach a qualifying heat. Here's a story, back in 2003, I lived in Boulder for three months to prepare for an upcoming PCA competition. I did everything I could, I bouldered, I ran, I ate organic salmon, drank water, stretched and even did an hour of mental training and meditation everyday, along with some 'soul-o-wing' in Eldo. I used the hangboard, weights and could crank off one arms with ease. I was never stronger and more confident. Sharma on the other hand, had just got off the plane from China where he apparently walked around barefoot for two months and gazed at Panda bears, he took a hiatus from climbing. I thought to myself, if there was a chance to beat Chris in a comp, this would be it, he'd be jet lagged, hoo, hoo, ha HA HA! We all qualified into the top ten and I was feeling beer than ever, I was actually enjoying myself for once. I even managed to flash a problem nobody else could, not even Chris. I thought I had a chance. In the finals however, Sharma gracefully flashed every single problem with ease, leaving the rest of us floundering like fish out of water. My muscles could not take the repeated stress over and over and over, and by the fourth climb on the third day I had nothing left, neither did anyone else, our tanks were completely empty. But not Chris, he kept on, and he won. Now this is me in my "peak condition" and Chris "off the couch", this is the difference. But it doesn't sadden me at all, why should it? It sets me free from ever trying to compare myself to anyone else ever again, and this allows me to focus on my own path. Chris is Chris, Adam is Adam, Lynn is Lynn, You are You, and I am Me. It sounds redundant, but it is a very special realization. I am going to be the best I can be with what I have. If I have to work to pay the rent before I go climbing or training, I am going to be the best I can be with what I have. If I have to visit my family instead of traveling to Spain for the winter, I am going to be the best I can be with what I have, because climbing is fun and we love it. Oh the joy! Happy Wednesday everybody! WOW, some truly amazing feedback. It seems like everyone has a slightly different perspective and insight, which is good, it shows us that we’re very unique, driven and inspired in different ways. I’ve wanted to make comments at various times throughout this discussion, but found it more interesting to sit back and listen, take it all in. Thanks so much to everyone for sharing, I never would have guessed. The funny thing is, this is a question with no answer, only opinions. Not even the athletes themselves can answer, because they don’t know either. If I had to express my opinion, I think I may have some friction, because I lean more towards genetic physical strength than anything else, actually, to make that more clear, strength to weight ratio. After all, that’s all climbing boils down to, strength to weight ratio, and I feel these athletes have a better ratio than most of us. That’s the bottom line.

Did you ever read that Sports Illustrated Issue dedicated to the Olympics, where doctors and scientists basically say that 95 percent of the athletes in the Olympics are there based strictly on genetics. Which means, average joe could train and dedicate his entire life like the devil himself to the 100 meter dash and will never approach a qualifying heat.

Here’s a story, back in 2003, I lived in Boulder for three months to prepare for an upcoming PCA competition. I did everything I could, I bouldered, I ran, I ate organic salmon, drank water, stretched and even did an hour of mental training and meditation everyday, along with some ‘soul-o-wing’ in Eldo. I used the hangboard, weights and could crank off one arms with ease. I was never stronger and more confident. Sharma on the other hand, had just got off the plane from China where he apparently walked around barefoot for two months and gazed at Panda bears, he took a hiatus from climbing. I thought to myself, if there was a chance to beat Chris in a comp, this would be it, he’d be jet lagged, hoo, hoo, ha HA HA! We all qualified into the top ten and I was feeling beer than ever, I was actually enjoying myself for once. I even managed to flash a problem nobody else could, not even Chris. I thought I had a chance. In the finals however, Sharma gracefully flashed every single problem with ease, leaving the rest of us floundering like fish out of water. My muscles could not take the repeated stress over and over and over, and by the fourth climb on the third day I had nothing left, neither did anyone else, our tanks were completely empty. But not Chris, he kept on, and he won. Now this is me in my “peak condition” and Chris “off the couch”, this is the difference.

But it doesn’t sadden me at all, why should it? It sets me free from ever trying to compare myself to anyone else ever again, and this allows me to focus on my own path. Chris is Chris, Adam is Adam, Lynn is Lynn, You are You, and I am Me. It sounds redundant, but it is a very special realization. I am going to be the best I can be with what I have. If I have to work to pay the rent before I go climbing or training, I am going to be the best I can be with what I have. If I have to visit my family instead of traveling to Spain for the winter, I am going to be the best I can be with what I have, because climbing is fun and we love it.

Oh the joy! Happy Wednesday everybody!

]]> By: El Crushonator http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-1/#comment-3478 El Crushonator Mon, 19 Jan 2009 15:56:41 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3478 I agree that Dave Graham does appear to be a technical master. But to call him weak is silly. Burly body strength may be his weakness, but he still probably has more of it than most V12-V13 boulderers. When he says he sucks at raw power/burliness, he means that he sucks compared to Daniel Woods and Chris Sharma. And, I think his finger strength may be just as good as theirs. I think it could be misleading for people who boulder at a much lower level to see his comments, and take away the lesson that strength doesn't matter. I agree that Dave Graham does appear to be a technical master. But to call him weak is silly.

Burly body strength may be his weakness, but he still probably has more of it than most V12-V13 boulderers. When he says he sucks at raw power/burliness, he means that he sucks compared to Daniel Woods and Chris Sharma. And, I think his finger strength may be just as good as theirs.

I think it could be misleading for people who boulder at a much lower level to see his comments, and take away the lesson that strength doesn’t matter.

]]> By: BenG. http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/01/13/open-discussion/comment-page-1/#comment-3477 BenG. Mon, 19 Jan 2009 14:03:39 +0000 http://sonnietrotter.com/?p=1261#comment-3477 @Bruno: Great post! I like that comment a lot, and nice work with the Pilgrimage quote - I think that does go some way to show that Sharma has the mental determination, drive and psyche to achieve incredible things. I agree with what you said about people comparing themselves to others and making things harder. That's something that happens naturally, especially in gyms, but I definitely try not to let it get on top of me. That sort of mental pressure makes for a bad mindset and poor performance (I guess that goes to show how important the right mental attitude is). @Matt: You raise another good point there as well in regards to Dave Graham. I'd say on a technical level, he's the best boulderer in the world. I defy anyone to watch his footwork and say otherwise. It's so precise and seemingly effortless (case in point: 'Loved by few, hated by many' V13 in the Ozarks, featured on Dosage 5). He isn't the strongest climber (and it seems that people like Chris Sharma and Dani Andrada yank his chain about not being able to do a one arm pull up etc - all in good spirits of course ;-) ) but he has other skills which mean that he can get through certain areas in different ways. @Bruno: Great post! I like that comment a lot, and nice work with the Pilgrimage quote – I think that does go some way to show that Sharma has the mental determination, drive and psyche to achieve incredible things. I agree with what you said about people comparing themselves to others and making things harder. That’s something that happens naturally, especially in gyms, but I definitely try not to let it get on top of me. That sort of mental pressure makes for a bad mindset and poor performance (I guess that goes to show how important the right mental attitude is).

@Matt: You raise another good point there as well in regards to Dave Graham. I’d say on a technical level, he’s the best boulderer in the world. I defy anyone to watch his footwork and say otherwise. It’s so precise and seemingly effortless (case in point: ‘Loved by few, hated by many’ V13 in the Ozarks, featured on Dosage 5). He isn’t the strongest climber (and it seems that people like Chris Sharma and Dani Andrada yank his chain about not being able to do a one arm pull up etc – all in good spirits of course ;-) ) but he has other skills which mean that he can get through certain areas in different ways.

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