So far, it’s been mellow here in Hueco, the crowds are everywhere but here. The campground is fairly quiet, the weather is as usual, impeccable, and the climbing is indescribable. I could try, but I would fail miserably and look even mo foolish than I normally do, so I won’t, but if you can try to imagine the perfect boulder problem for you, it’s quite possible that it lives here in Texas. We managed a half day with our legendary friend Lynn Hill, whom I’m sure you’ve all heard by now sent a V12 this week with that gleaming smile. She is an unstoppable force. Strong throughout and tough minded, she doesn’t take no for an answer, a shinning light that touches us all.
Another shinning star these days is the Vancouver resident, Sean McColl. You’ve heard his name, he’s pulled on some small holds. Maybe some of the smallest in the world. He’s endured rope climbing comps, became a champion more than twice, and can likely kick your ass on the x-box too. He climbed 5.14 at 12 years of age and now climbs V12 by the time you and I can pull on our climbing shoes. He’s had an impressive two days here focusing on flashing hard. He managed an easy first try ascent of Full Service V10 and yesterday walked away from the 16 foot lip of ‘Rules of Chaos’. A highball V10/11 put up first by Jason Kehl. I’ll keep you posted on his project progress.
My finger is still aggravating me. GAWD DAMMIT. Ha ha ha. Grin. I take my time warming up, film a lot and sit in the sun until I see something that won’t make it worse. I can’t believe it’s been 5 weeks of no climbing at all, I feel like a sloth. At least a toe nail infection would have allowed me to do campus sessions and work outs. Yesterday I managed two easy V8’s without any finger tape, so I count that towards a mental step forward, climbing without tape. Today is a rest day, driving around El Paso in circles, looking at all the pretty buildings and I’m missing my girlfriend. I wish Lydia was here, she would really really love this place, I hope she gets to see it soon (maybe later this winter). Lucky for me there is youtube and I can see her now whenever there is a wifi connection. Lydia’s been doodling with youtube lately, sometimes when she’s just messing around the house, or has something to say, she turns the camera on herself and wings it. Which is great for aspiring yogi’s and seasoned veterans. Personally, and maybe I’m just being biased, but I’m pretty sure this is the best youtube video on the net right now. probably EVER. Against her wishes, I am going to post it here, because I thought maybe it can help us appreciate what it’s like to feel flexible again, like a 2 year old with straight healthy bones, a strong back and full of pure life.