ONE WEEK EXACTLY!

Well it’s now been close to a month since I’ve climbed. 3 weeks and 4 days. My finger is looking better, sort of like the color of a new born mouse, which is a slightly better hue than the freshly boiled Beetroot it was last week. I did my first dead-hang session last night and things went smoothly, so I hope to climb on the woody tonight or tomorrow. The funny thing about dead hangs is that they are boring as all hell. They really are. There is nothing exciting about dead-hangs. Well actually, that’s a lie, the exciting thing is that they work. Nobody said training for climbing is going to be a fun filled adventure, but it’s certainly effective. I’m super stoked about my latest board, I’ve pumped out this thing that makes my arms burn, my core work and my head strong. Someday (very soon) I am going to release it to the public and see if we can’t all get worked together. Maybe then it won’t be so dull. Sa-Weeet, that gets me stoked.

Another thing that gets me stoked is bouldering, and bouldering in Hueco Tanks especially. To celebrate the return of my crippled finger I have booked a flight to Texas. I’m leaving one week today. Although I don’t expect to climb all too hard, I do expect to see some radical cool peeps, to watch the sun set, to have a roaring fire, to drink American Beer and to climb fun problems until my arms fall off, and maybe if I’m lucky I can shoot some guns. I’ll leave you with some more visuals of one of the great problems in Hueco, Martini Roof (right) V12. I did the left version (V10) about 2 years ago, on my second or third try, but never invested much energy into the right version. My buddy Lev stuck around for an extra week and sent the classic dream line and I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t jealous. Here is a picture of a friend of ours, I can’t for the life of me seem to recall his name, but he was giving the crux one hell of a shakedown, good guy (crappy shoes), photo’s turned out well too…

More photos and video of Hueco coming soon on here, so stay tuned if you’re into it.
On a side note, today Climbing Magazine launched a slide show from my trip to India back in January, February and March. It’s mostly pictures, you can visit them at climbing.com.

And, on another side note, our WACKY friends over at Pimp World just published an interview I did. I’m pretty sure I was not sober when this took place, but I could be wrong. Hope you enjoy. www.pimpinandcrimpin.com

  • Matt

    What’s a hangboard session look like for you?

  • Thanks Sonnie. Love the blog. Im not a climber (yet) but reading about your passions inspires me to pursue my own.

  • Phunk

    Let’s see some pics of this hangboard. I’m in the market for a good one.

  • adam

    After reading your E grade article I am not impressed. You seem to always have a grip or a whine about something in another country.
    Whether it is the way the grade climbs or the fact the population is too large for you.
    Maybe you should keep your opinions about things that happen outside Canada to yourself and write about climbing.
    All I see is a fucken whiner complaining and has a group of groupies telling him how good he is.

    I stood behind your ascent of the “Path” in Lake Louise but I think you are just another washed up- sponsored spray artist.

    Whiney Rotter should be your name.

  • ant

    That pic looks like Joel Anderson from Minnesota. Spends his time in Squamish over the summer. Dunno if that name rings a bell. If it’s not him, it’s his twin.

  • Matt

    OK, good mine too at least I’m doin it right

  • sonnie

    Hey Guys, hangboarding all depends on your goals and what you’re seeking. Some people want power, some power-endurance and others just endurance. I have about 4-6 different exercises I do, and I mix them up depending on my mood or motivation. Right now I’m super duper weak, so I’m just doing basic hangs, no fancy stuff, no extra weight. I try not to hang for more than 10 seconds right now, I’d rather do a few more at 10 seconds than less at 15 or 20 seconds. I try to avoid getting too pumped right now, i just want to keep the blood flowing and maintain something into the new year. This time of year is the down time for me, especially with Christmas coming around the bend, I always eat too much and train too little. Sigh. I’m a sucker for cookies and eggnog. weird.

    Phunk, all in good time mate, I’ll have them ready in a couple weeks, promise.
    Moses, thanks for the kind words, very nice of you, I believe that inspiration is a cycle, it never ends, the world is a pretty amazing place, and it’s great where we get our doses from, I’m sure it will come back around and you will be the one giving me a boost.

    Adam, great words dude, that’s amazing you took time out of your busy day to write down all that negativity so eloquently. A sincere thanks and Whiney Rotter is a fabulous suggestion, did you think of that? Brilliant. No really. It made me smile. I’m glad you disagree with my opinion about trying to avoid comparing routes to each other. Opinions are what sparks creativity. I didn’t have a bad experience over Seas, it was lovely, I’m not sure what you are referring to exactly, I had a truly lovely time, so lovely in fact I plan to return. I haven’t read the gripped bit yet and I hope the editors (who are a fantastic group of guys) didn’t chop it up too much. Sometimes editors do that and re-arrange words. But I hope not in this case. Either way, thanks again. oh and I do not consider myself a washed up spray artist, I am in fact in my spraying prime, wait until I get back from Hueco, I am going to whine about that place so hard, and then I am going to flail pathetically on all the hard problems and downgrade them on my blog. For a list of problems I can’t do and have since downgraded be sure to check back next week.

    Isaac, thanks for posting that, t’was super cool to see.

    Ant – I think you’re absolutely right. Joel, that’s it. Super cool guy. Thanks.

    C-U.

  • Fre

    Whiney Rotter is pretty good, Adam must have been torturing his brain for a while to come up with that, hell, I’m trying to complete my PhD and wouldn’t be able to come up with a solid alternative, I thought about Bony Potter but it doesn’t have that catchy ring, eh?
    Anyway, I hope you weren’t standing to close behind Bony or Whiney when he was doing that ascent coz that would be kinda creepy

  • D-train

    Hey Sonnie, just out of curiosity, can you hang a 1st joint edge with one hand? What about holding a front lever?

  • Sonnie

    D-train,

    No, I can’t. That was my goal about a month ago before the minor set backs. Would be rad to do that though. One pad, one arm, four fingers. Awesome. I can dead hang with three fingers sometimes, but three is way easier cause I use friction. Four is harder because the fingers are more flexed, and they want to snap open. Did you ever see the great footage of Jared Roth dead hanging from a crimp on the campus board in Utah. SICK!!!!! Front levers, yes, from time to time, but never for very long, 5 seconds was the longest ever I think, right now I’d be lucky to hold it for two. How about yourself D? What are you training for?

  • D-train

    I think I’m still pretty far off of the 1 hand hang. I can hang 4 finger open both hands, with an extra 60lbs or so. Full crimp feels a little weaker/scarier. I’m trying 1 hand hangs with a bungee to assist.

    I’m weak on 3 finger open, trying to work on that. You mean for 3 fingers you turn your hand to the side and “choke up” on the edge so the 2nd pads take some weight too? Front lever- 5 seconds or so. Would be cool to work up to these- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFicccDgjUI

    I don’t have a specific project, but I’m training to do my first .14a. Hopefully, next year sometime.

    Yeah, the Jared Roth video is awesome. That was as mesmerizing as Fred Nicole’s ‘Masters of Stone’ pinky pullup!

  • PKeen

    Sonnie,
    Sweet blog! I’ve been climbing for exactly a year now (today) and I’m starting to hit the wall a little bit on advancing up in difficulty. As most climbers, I think, I just like to climb sweet lines but I also find, lately, that the lines I’m enjoying the most are the ones that are really really challenging.

    That being said, here is my question: When/If you hit a wall in climbing where you just weren’t progressing (mine right now is I can’t stick this .13c), what did you do? If you trained harder, what kind of training did you do?

    Any tips would be stellar. Thanks!

  • Charlie

    Sonnie, have you ever considered putting a training page on web site to help out us lesser beings? That would be super cool.

    Have a blast in Heuco. That sounds like a cool trip this time of year. Sitting here in the interior of BC at a remote site working is really making want to go on a road trip.

    Charlie

  • hey that’s me! that was cool to see how quickly you did martini left. it was fun climbing with you guys, plus you and lev had girls following you around all the time. they thought lev was a greek god! -joel anderson

  • Sonnie

    Hey Joel,

    Great to hear from you man, yah we had fun that day. I was just joking ’bout the shoes though, he he. Hope you like the pictures, I’m sure we’ll see you out on the road again one day soon I hope. Take care J and thanks for dropping by.

  • Ken

    “Whiney Rotter”…hee hee pretty funny. I kinda like “group of groupies” too.

  • sonnie

    Ha ha ha, yes, too funny.

    Pkeen and Charlie, yes, I’ve put much thought into as of lately and I am currently working on it, I just need to touch up a few things before it launches but thanks so much for your input, really, it inspires me to work harder. Ha, ever notice the word inspire has the word spire in it? Cool.

    To answer your question Pkeen yes I plateaued for sure, we all do. In fact, I was WAY stronger at 24 than I am now, because I spent so much time climbing and training. The two things you need to consider is time and intensity. You don’t want to go straight to doing a 5 hour workout, but you do want to slowly increase the time you invest in training, the best athletes in the world have genetic gifts, but they also spend hours and hours and hours, days and weeks and years refining those gifts. You too have a gift and it sounds to me like you have not yet reached your ‘real’ plateau. Also, increase your intensity, if you can a V7 without trouble, try doing it twice back to back. Or try doing it with a weight vest on. But remember go slowly, but go all the way. At any signs of pain or discomfort, pull back and bit, let your body adjust and then go forward again.

    For an article on the brief history of training, check my headers on top, I just added it, to the right of ‘blog’. Let me know what you think. Good luck man and stay in touch.