The Prophecy wall is one of the coolest little cliffs I've played on in ages. The sandstone is fine, like Font in France and it's a really delicate style, delicate but pumpy and they always finish out a roof, with big pulls to big jugs. CLipping the chains is realizing that you may fall of the biggest hold in the world. ON the far right side is this 5.14a, that Chris Sharma put up during his time here filming for Dosage. It's really good. Short and bouldery, with a tricky and crimpy dihedral start, a pumpy little roof and some lip slopers, then to finish things off, a hard mantel encounter and a deadpoint to a crimp the size of the bottom of a lighter. Two fingers. From there it's 5.12 to the top. Here is a picture of Chris after the crux, about 4 bolts up.
Regardless of its grade, it's a very pretty climb, it moves well, and it's nice on the skin. EXCEPT if you try it the wrong way 30 times. Which is what happened yesterday. Andrew (pimpin and crimpin.com) and I threw ourselves at the route twice each, both trying this incredibly hard beta on the right. We knew something was wrong, but could not solve its mystery. We then ( and don't laugh) downlaoded a video off of youtube.com on his iphone and watched Scott Milton doing the crux. AH HA. Left foot forward. Int he end, we used a hybrid style beta, half of ours and half of his. It works well and today on my first try I one hung the climb. Unfortunately, I only have one more day of climbing and it's COMP day. So, I can likely kiss my chances good bye. Oh well, the comp is going to be SOOOOO RAD. I'm getting a little nervous about it, 24 hours non stop. My hands will be like bloody red stumps afterwards, like the other 200 craggers. I'm sure the tequila will numb some of that pain though.
I hope you are all doing well and conditions are good. I'll set up some pictures tomorrow, it's a rest day. S.