The Alpine that is. While I am here in India, sitting under coconut tree's and drinking vanilla milkshakes, I keep hearing of these two brave souls who traveled down south this past winter. Two stubborn souls with hearts of gold and titanium. Tall, blonde and handsome men, men with nerves of steel and hairless chests, men with no attachments to girls, jobs or life as you and I think we know it. Brave men. Men from North Vancouver. Here is a clipping from Gripped magazine…
"Feb 13, 2008 – Canadians Rocking Patagonia
Canadians are enjoying a spectacular Patagonia climbing season of significant repeats and impressive first ascents. The strong Québec team of Sacha Friedlin and Frederic Maltais bagged a stunning new unclimbed line on the north face of Poincenot in early January. The pair climbed the 700m long Banana Wall VI 5.11a M6+ C1, in a 24-hour push with no fixed gear. The incredible face is located between the routes Crouch-Donini 5.10+ A1-2 and the Potter-Davis 5.11 C1 550m, and involves sustained climbing with almost every pitch in the 5.10 range.
Not content to have all the plums picked by Québec climbers, the North Vancouver-based team of Will Stanhope and Jason Kruk completed the first ascent of the west ridge of Poincenot. Named DNV (District of North Van), the route checks in at 5.11 R/X A1 1700m, with only couple of sections of aid. Bolstered by their success, the pair repeated The Sound and The Fury (with a two pitch variation) 5.12b 800m on Desmochada on January 29. The route was climbed with the leader freeeing every pitch from stance to stance. Looking to complete the hat-trick, the team also made the first continuous free ascent, with both the leader and second freeing the route, of Via Sin Nombre 5.12b 500m (aka Blood on the Tracks)."
Congratulations to both teams, this is something I have often dreamed of, a new route on the world class granite of the patagonia range. All in good time. I look forward to hearing the stories and hopefully seeing some inspiring photo's, from both trips. Sounds like the Canadians are crushing it down there, keep up the good work boys, your efforts are making many of us wish we were more man than boy. Get over it and get on with it they say. Talk is cheap.