thanks everyone for the great feedback, much too kind. It's amazing how great the community is and supportive of new routes and such, I got a great amount of e-mails and whatnot and I just want to say that it is appreciated. In turn, I hope that all of you are having a great summer and sending all your dream climbs, your projects whatever they may be.
Today it's raining, CRAP. I hate rain, I really do. Some people like it and they say "Don't be so down Sonnie, God is in the rain" that may be true and I have no intentions of interfering with any religious beliefs, but it does not make the rain any more fun. It still sucks ass, and it's still CRAP.
I got my fingers crossed for tomorrow though. The plan is to go back out to Yamnuska and finish the free climb that me and Nick started in June. It's just been sitting there, all alone, incomplete, empty, cold and lonely. It's gonna be wicked. 4 pitches, gold and silver streaks of limestone, and I'll admit it, it will be nice to clip some bolts.
I just learned that a web video I made for fun to show some friends the new route called "The Path" (which is short for path of most resistance, see below) is now up on You Tube. I thought it was too big a file to work, but I guess I was wrong, somebody found it and it's posted at this address…
The footage was taken by Cory Richards and the low res version makes it fuzzy and soft, but I think it's easy to tell what's going on regardless, especially when I bail and retreat from the crux. Tail between legs. Sometimes I would get all psyched up and then look and realize just how far away the hold really was and all my spirit would crumble, I would cowardly shrink back to safety and slump onto the security of that tiny black Alien. Which for the record was the only peice of gear that didn't break when i fell on it, in fact I have fallen on that peice about 25 times over the last year and a half. I broke 2 grey metolius 00's and one purple 0. They didn't snap completely, but I needed a freaking hammer and a nut tool to get them out, and once they were out, they were GARBAGE. Nothing but cheap mangled metal and the smell of wasted money.
Please for the sake of god, (in the rain and all) please stop making cams lighter and softer, the ones Metolius made before were so rad, durable and easy to handle, these new ones annoy me. I can understand that they are good for the mountains and fast and light and big walls and stuff, but at least offer the other ones for us Granite Cragging types who actually take falls. What's wrong with offering two different purpose cams, market the light and cheap ones that break for the big terrain stuff and then offer some nice, durable, well handling, well crafted ones for everyone else. Simple.
Okay, I am out, if I keep going on – I'm gonna get myself in trouble and I will probably start spewing about rubber, ropes, dog shit, horse shit and other items on and on, like the rating system, I hate the whole A,B,C,D thing, but I play along because it's the language we speak. I do enjoy Sharma's technique of not rating anything at all, that way everything he does is considered the 'hardest thing in the world' and the legend lives on, but isn't there a middle ground? Can't we all copy the excellent example of Joe Rockheads in Toronto, they keep it simple, 5.10-, 5.10+, 5.11-. 5.11+ and if you can't decide whether or not it is a HARD 5.11 or an EASY 5.11 let's just call it – 5.11 and leave it at that, everyone wins ad after all the climb is what is important, not that stupid looking number attached to it in the guidebook. Oh and in case you are wondering, The Path is rated 5.14 R and only 5.14 R (because there is a few mandatory Runouts). But, if you see any additions to this grade, any speculation or inflation it will not be my doing, sometimes I call things B if people want an exact rating, becuase it is right in the middle of a sliding scale. For example, I know for certain that this route is NOT 5.14d, but it's possible for a short person to think it is 5.14c and it's possible for a highly trained athlete to think it's 5.14a, but 5.14b leaves so much room for movement, that I figure I can't lose, but I probably will one way or another. Ahhhh – can't we all just get a long? didn't think so.