NO PLACE LIKE HOME

You know that old saying…well it’s true.

If you’ve actually read any of the previous posts, you’d have learned that I was in the great country of Scotland last week attempting Dave Mac’s Rhapsody rated E11. You would also have learned that the weather chased us away to Spain for some sunshine therapy. I am going to try and say this loud and clear, if you ever get a chance to see the Island of Mallorca, DO IT. It will be the best decision of your entire life.

Anyway, back to Scotland. We had another week of climbing after our return and to our disappointment we got more rain. However, I will say this – Scotland did warm up to us towards the end and gave us two very BEAUTIFUL afternoons. I tried the route twice on the second last day (still on TR) and managed overlapping falls on the final boulder problem. That was my sixth day of effort and likely twice as many attempts. I could almost taste it. But alas, it will have to wait until another day. Hopefully I will be stronger on that day and braver. For pics and video and stuff check out www.hotaches.com

Oh well, back to KANATA – Eh? If you have been checking forecasts around North America, (as many climbers tend to do) you will take notice that Canmore has been a very steady 20 – 25 degrees, blue skies and blazzing sunshine. No excuses here, just grab the white spot and pull down – hopefully the rock won’t break in your hand.

My friend Nick and I noticed a stunning headwall up on Yamnuska on our first day back in town and decided it was worth checking out. After 2 hours of hiking and hauling gear, we have come to the conclusion that although it is only overhanging for half the height of the wall, it is going to be a very spectacular climb. FORMIDABLE even.

Keep checking back as the progress on this unfolds. The pics we got are sick.

Whatever, now I am off to the Wet Coast again to take my guiding course. They sure make it tough to be a rock guide here in Canada, but it should all be worth it, besides, it’s about time I learn how to properly equalize an anchor.

Thanks so much for all your support out there, I am sorry if I have not responded to everyone’s e-mail, it’s harder than I thought being a professional traveling climbing bum, very little time indeed. I will get back to all of you a.s.a.p. as soon as I call my mom to tell her all is well.

S.

  • petewoods

    strong effort bro. a know a few folk here thought for sure you would send it… silly scots and their silly weather.

  • owen seright

    the nice thing about the canadians guide courses is that our standards are so high, the it is recognized at so many places in the world. I am currently doing my ACMG CGI level 1 right now. I don’t know if i will go as far as becoming a guide, but you never know.

    Congrats on the progress on Rhapsody, any plans in the making to go work on it another time?

  • Sonnie Trotter

    Hey PETE,

    Long time no see bro. Thanks for the kind words, After my very first attempt I too thought I was going to send it. It’s a magnificent route, hard, bold and beautiful. But I was feeling rather confident until the next day when it began to poor. Oh well, life goes on.

    And to answer your question Owen, yes, I do have plans to return. if the climb was just another clip up I would probably say no, but what makes it so special is that it is a pure natural line, that’s what gives it it’s character. I think it’s worth another shot in the rain to see how my luck will unfold.

    By the way, just got back from my ACMG assistant rock guides course and you’re right, standards are high, we had a great group of people which actually made the week pretty fun. Good luck on your CGI. I figure there is lot’s of time to decide how far into the guiding world we want to go, no rush.

    Take it easy yall.

    S.